Day 6: Helford to FigTree House, Penryn

March 6

Kilometers: 20.5

Ascent: 480

Horses: 6

Geese: 2

Due to the cold and wet weather I have stayed in B&B's so far and will continue to do so for the time being. It gets a lot more expensive, but also a lot easier. Besides, to wild camp you need the land owner's permission. Along the National Trails it is often accepted as long as you pitch late and leave early, but I've now left the South West Coast Path and won't be on a National Trail until Offa's Dyke in about 2 weeks. 

The morning looked promising, but it soon got cloudy, with light showers throughout the day (hey, I'm in England, I have to talk about the weather).

Leaving Helford I had another companion for a while.

Today has been a lot of ups and downs, more than I anticipated. If anyone thinks England is flat, think again! I walked along small and smaller country lanes, and spent the time doing math. I've met or been overtaken by ~320 cars, let's say 300 to make it easier. Every time you have to stop and get as far to the side as you can, which takes 5-15 seconds. Let's say 10. I like easy math. So, 3000 seconds, that's 50 minutes I've had to stop. No wonder it takes a long time to get where you're going!

This is where my GPS wanted me to go. A road even more narrow? I've been on roads where it was difficult for cars to pass me today (they're always very careful, though). Also, I saw a car drive through that water and it was quite deep. So I took the slightly longer road, probably much safer.

I had lunch at the Black Swan in Gweek, a very good chicken burger. Afterwards I was so full I wanted to stay for a while, but no rest for the wicked. So, on I went and finally arrived at Fig Tree House, a beautiful B&B with wonderful views of the Cornish countryside. This is the first place I've stayed that actually feels warm and dry. I guess the British are hardier than I am. And tonight my hosts washed all my clothes for me!