Granadas katedral
Turistshopping
Pension Suecia
Alhambra i solnedgången
Från mitt rum
2019-03-19
March 18, Guadix to La Peza, 22 kilometers
Guadix katedral
Sierra Nevada i bakgrunden
Bostäder i klippväggen
Massor med får
2019-03-17
2019-03-11
March 8, Cádiz, 17747 steps, 14 kilometers
The day started out dark and dreary with drizzling rain but not enough to bother me. During the train ride it was raining, but as we arrived in Cádiz the sun came out. First, I walked to my hostel, checked in and left my backpack.
Today turned out to be another great day. The hostel is in the old town and I walked to the cathedral in 5 minutes through winding alleys and past pretty buildings. The cathedral is beautiful but not as old as I thought it would be. It was finished in 1838.
As always I had to go up the tower. There was a ramp here as well, but at the top there was a narrow staircase without a railing. I think I got some good shots.
I spent the rest of my afternoon walking the seefront and people watching during the carnival.
2019-03-08
March 7, Sevilla, 20254 steps, 17 kilometers
I got up early again, to go to the train station. The train left at 6.45 am and I wanted to have plenty of time to make sure I made it.
The first 30 minutes of the trip it was dark, pitch black. At first I thought we were going through tunnels, that's how dark it was.
After a while the sun came up. I don't mind at all leaving - 22 C and snow for +18 and palm-trees. After checking in at the Pension La Montareña I headed to the Alcázar, the royal castle/keep of the moors and christian kings (still in use). I have never seen a place like this before. It is huge and has been added to over the centuries. The rooms and court yards are a maze of beautifully tile decorated floors, walls and (indoor) ceilings. I spent four hours there and could easily have stayed longer, but after a nice lunch I left, to be able see more of what Sevilla had to offer.
My original plan was to see the cathedral later in the day but they closed early, so I went there straight away. First I walked up the Giralda, the bell tower. Instead of steps there is a ramp, so that you could ride a donkey almost all the way up.
After visiting the cathedral I spent the rest of the day walking around the town until I could feel two hot spots on my right foot. I took a taxi back to the pension and went to bed early again, in hopes of getting a good night's rest.
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| Add caption |
March 6, Málaga
Last night I found out that my airplane didn't leave at 6.50. The new time was 9.50, which gave me a a bit longer to sleep, but less time in Málaga.
As always when I'm going somewhere I didn't sleep well. The plane to Stockholm was fine, I had three seats to myself, but the international flight was 50 minutes late leaving and we lost more time in the air. After I checked in (The Lights Hostal) it was almost dark, and the sights I had planned on seeing were closed. I strolled around town for a while and then went back to the hostal. There was now a girl in the room, but she was also tired and we both went to bed at around 10 pm. Five minutes later two other girls arrived, and later on another. The new arrivals were not tired. They kept running in and out of the room for at least four hours. Not a good night.
2019-03-04
2019-03-03
Back to the... Camino
My next Camino
Last year I went on two longer backpacking trips, one crossing Scotland and one in Michigan, USA. My feet weren't to bad but on both those trips I ended up having back problems, the last one I even had to end prematurely when I woke one morning and could hardly move. It was very difficult to pack my tent and gear. This past winter I've been wondering if backpacking without having to set up and take down my tent every day would make things easier for me. Somehow I have to figure out what causes these problems. So, I started thinking of going back to the camino, where I can stay in an albergue every night.
For a long time I have wanted to visit the South of Spain. Granada with the Alhambra, the Mezquita in Córdoba, Cádiz... there is just so much to see there! Imagine my excitement when I found out about the Camino Mozárabe . There are 3 different starting points, Málaga, Jaen or Almería. Almería passes both Granada and Córdoba, and also is one of the longest Spanish caminos. It starts on the coast almost as far as you can go in the southeast of Spain.
Yes, it is far, close to 1400 kilometers or 870 miles. I recently got 6 cortisone shots, three in each foot, so I'm hoping that will help. But I don't have to walk all the way to Santiago de Compostela, I'll just walk as far as it feels ok. On the other hand, if I do make it to SdC, there's always the option to continue to Fisterra, just another 93 kilometers.
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| The plan |
However, before I start walking there are all these other places I want to visit in Andalucía. In two days I fly to Málaga, where I'll start my speed tour of the south. Five days of early plane/train/bus trips and one day of sight-seeing, sleep and repeat. And after that I probably need to rest before I even start walking the camino!
2019-02-10
TGOC2018 Braemar to Stonehaven, May 19 - May 22 2018
May 19, Braemar to Ballater, 33 km, ascent 350 m
Today I had to make a choice. I had to decide if I should stay on my planned route or if I should walk to Ballater, and then continue on the Deeside Way. Even though my back had been good for a couple of days I was a bit worried that it would get worse while out in the middle of nowhere. I decided to go to Ballater and then see how I felt, it would be possible to head into the Cairngorms from there.
Starting out I walked along the road. There were no shoulders and the traffic was heavy, so I was very happy when I finally arrived at the Invercauld Bridge and I left the road. Once I left the road the walk was lovely. I was very surprised to find that I was walking right behind Balmoral Castle. When I got closer I saw that there was a huge orienteering event taking place at the castle. There were people running everywhere, and I was tempted to go down there and see if I could find something to eat, but decided against it.
I kept walking and arrived in Ballater quite late. I asked around for a campground, but it was full, due to all the orienteerers staying in town. I finally found a guest house, The Netherly, that had a room. Nice as it was, it feels so very wrong to stay in a guest house instead of camping.
Finally I leave the road
I wonder if Queen Victora walked here?
Balmoral
Netherly Guest House
Today I had to make a choice. I had to decide if I should stay on my planned route or if I should walk to Ballater, and then continue on the Deeside Way. Even though my back had been good for a couple of days I was a bit worried that it would get worse while out in the middle of nowhere. I decided to go to Ballater and then see how I felt, it would be possible to head into the Cairngorms from there.
Starting out I walked along the road. There were no shoulders and the traffic was heavy, so I was very happy when I finally arrived at the Invercauld Bridge and I left the road. Once I left the road the walk was lovely. I was very surprised to find that I was walking right behind Balmoral Castle. When I got closer I saw that there was a huge orienteering event taking place at the castle. There were people running everywhere, and I was tempted to go down there and see if I could find something to eat, but decided against it.
I kept walking and arrived in Ballater quite late. I asked around for a campground, but it was full, due to all the orienteerers staying in town. I finally found a guest house, The Netherly, that had a room. Nice as it was, it feels so very wrong to stay in a guest house instead of camping.
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| Finally I leave the road |
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| I wonder if Queen Victora walked here? |
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| Balmoral |
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| Netherly Guest House |
May 20, Ballater to Aboyne, 21 km, ascent 16 m
This morning I started walking the Deeside Way. The route follows the line of the Old Royal Deeside Railway from Ballater to Aboyne, through woodland and farmland to Kincardine O’Neil and on to Banchory, and then rejoins the old line to Aberdeen. The morning was cloudy, but with no rain. I soon found that walking the old railway line was boring. For long stretches it was completely straight, sometimes for one or two kilometers. There were no hills, though, and my back felt fairly fine. At Dinnet I stopped for lunch. While I was sitting there an other challenger walked in, so I had nice company. We were both going to Aboyne. He had a reservation at The Boat Inn, and suggested I check them, since it was a nice place. When I got to Aboyne my first stop was at The Boat, but it seemed all the orienteerers had moved to Aboyne over the day, so it was full. I asked for a campground, but there wasn't one, so I called a couple of places, but they were all full. I asked a couple on the street if they knew of any other places. They said that the only other place they knew was The Huntly Inn, but they didn't recommend it. By now I was beginning to get desperate, so I went to the Huntly Inn anyway. There seemed to be only one person working there. He told me that they hadn't had time to clean the rooms that day and that the only room he could offer was a double. I took it. It was difficult to find, I had to navigate winding corridors and pass several doorways to get there.
Today wasn't a long day, but all the long straight stretches made it feel very long.
Today wasn't a long day, but all the long straight stretches made it feel very long.
May 21, Aboyne to Banchory, 26 km, ascent 347 m
When I came down to breakfast only one place was set. I felt like the only guest at the hotel, but yesterday I had seen two more people, so there must have been others. I didn't have much for breakfast, since I wanted to get going as soon as possible. When I asked the receptionist at the hotel where the Deeside Way continued he had no idea of what the Deeside Way is. He told me to cross the river and just start walking, but I knew enough to know that that was wrong, so I just started walking in the right general direction, hoping to stumble upon it. I didn't stumble upon it, but I met a couple who were walking their dog, and they showed me to the start of the day's walk. Fairly soon I came to the campground. It turned out there was one, and in a beautiful setting! Next time...
The day was beautiful. And there were hardly any straight lines, so I was very happy. In Kincardine O'Neil I got lunch at the local store, and sat outside in the sun eating it. Kincardine O'Neil is a pretty village. As I left I passed the old church, and I just had to have a closer look.
The afternoon was hot, and I was very happy to find a bench in the xhade where I could rest for a while and have a snack. By the time I got to Banchory I was very tired. I must have looked it as well. When I went to check in at the Burnett Arms (no campgrounds...) the lady at the reception desk had a long look at me and asked where I came from. When I said Shiel Bridge, on the west coast, she was shocked and upgraded me to one of their best rooms. Needless to say, it was a lovely room!
The old Banchory train station?
Loch of Aboyne, next to the campgrounds
Kincardine O’Neil, where I had lunch
Old Kincardine O’Neil church, from the mid 14th century
The Potarch Bridge, which I'm about to cross in a couple of minutes
Resting and having a snack
Thank you Rotary Club of Banchory
The Burnett Arms
When I came down to breakfast only one place was set. I felt like the only guest at the hotel, but yesterday I had seen two more people, so there must have been others. I didn't have much for breakfast, since I wanted to get going as soon as possible. When I asked the receptionist at the hotel where the Deeside Way continued he had no idea of what the Deeside Way is. He told me to cross the river and just start walking, but I knew enough to know that that was wrong, so I just started walking in the right general direction, hoping to stumble upon it. I didn't stumble upon it, but I met a couple who were walking their dog, and they showed me to the start of the day's walk. Fairly soon I came to the campground. It turned out there was one, and in a beautiful setting! Next time...
The day was beautiful. And there were hardly any straight lines, so I was very happy. In Kincardine O'Neil I got lunch at the local store, and sat outside in the sun eating it. Kincardine O'Neil is a pretty village. As I left I passed the old church, and I just had to have a closer look.
The afternoon was hot, and I was very happy to find a bench in the xhade where I could rest for a while and have a snack. By the time I got to Banchory I was very tired. I must have looked it as well. When I went to check in at the Burnett Arms (no campgrounds...) the lady at the reception desk had a long look at me and asked where I came from. When I said Shiel Bridge, on the west coast, she was shocked and upgraded me to one of their best rooms. Needless to say, it was a lovely room!
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| The old Banchory train station? |
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| Loch of Aboyne, next to the campgrounds |
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| Kincardine O’Neil, where I had lunch |
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| Old Kincardine O’Neil church, from the mid 14th century |
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| The Potarch Bridge, which I'm about to cross in a couple of minutes |
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| Resting and having a snack |
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| Thank you Rotary Club of Banchory |
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| The Burnett Arms |
May 22, Banchory to Stonehaven, 28 km, ascent 361 m
Walking the Deeside Way meant that I was making good time and today would be my final day. It was a cloudy day, which was good, since I would be walking along minor and not so minor roads all day, all tarmac. Sunshine would probably have made it a very hot day.
On the Challenge message board I'd been in contact with Brian, who helped me find a good route from Banchory to Stonehaven. I didn't really feel like going to Aberdeen, Stonehaven seemed like a much nicer finish. This route meant that I'd be walking along roads all day.
At first I was on minor roads. Walking along, I managed to miss a left turn, which made the day two kilometers longer, but hey, what's two kilometers when you're crossing a country?? Eventually the roads got bigger, with more traffic. I miss the shoulders we have on the roads in Sweden!
Somewhere along the road Brian came to meet me. It was nice to have someone to talk to, it made the long tarmac walk go by much faster. Also, he guided me onto some smaller roads, which was a lot nicer. Once we got to Stonehaven I walked down to the water, where I stepped into the sea to completely finish my crossing. If it just weren't for those two or three kilometers before Laggan!
So difficult to walk on this side of the road
First glimpse of the sea
I followed Slug Road for a long time today!
Walking the Deeside Way meant that I was making good time and today would be my final day. It was a cloudy day, which was good, since I would be walking along minor and not so minor roads all day, all tarmac. Sunshine would probably have made it a very hot day.
On the Challenge message board I'd been in contact with Brian, who helped me find a good route from Banchory to Stonehaven. I didn't really feel like going to Aberdeen, Stonehaven seemed like a much nicer finish. This route meant that I'd be walking along roads all day.
At first I was on minor roads. Walking along, I managed to miss a left turn, which made the day two kilometers longer, but hey, what's two kilometers when you're crossing a country?? Eventually the roads got bigger, with more traffic. I miss the shoulders we have on the roads in Sweden!
Somewhere along the road Brian came to meet me. It was nice to have someone to talk to, it made the long tarmac walk go by much faster. Also, he guided me onto some smaller roads, which was a lot nicer. Once we got to Stonehaven I walked down to the water, where I stepped into the sea to completely finish my crossing. If it just weren't for those two or three kilometers before Laggan!
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| So difficult to walk on this side of the road |
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| First glimpse of the sea |
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| I followed Slug Road for a long time today! |
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