Day 16: Drymen to Sallochy Campsite

May 3

Kilometers: 18

Ascent: 254

I woke to a beautiful morning and a nice breakfast. My knee was a bit painful last night, so I had to find a new route, I couldn't walk up and down Conic Hill. Too bad to miss the Loch Lomond view though! 

Drymen Inn in the morning. I had the two windows on the left side, right above the beer garden. The music stopped at 11 pm and I managed to sleep for a bit before that.

OS Maps suggested a route parallel to the road, but in the forest. At first the trail was very nice, but it soon got wet and muddy. But that's excpected after the rainiest winter in a hundred or so years.

As I took this photo I thought I'd better check where I was. Good thing, I had somehow missed a turn. I retraced my steps for about 1 kilometer and found the trail. More of an opening in the trees, the trail was very faint, obviously not many people walk it. As I kept walking it got more difficult and at times I had to push through shrubbery and trees. 

Eventually I could see the forest opening up, only to arrive at a locked gate. No problem, it was very sturdy and easy to climb 😀 On the map I could see the forest continue for some time on the other side of the large paddock I was now in. Apprehensive about it being as difficult as what I had just walked through I opted for a gate to my right and a short track to the road. I reached a gate and it wasn't even locked 🤩 I followed the main road until I got to Balmaha and a very nice cafe where I stopped for lunch and a rest.

After lunch the trail followed Loch Lomond and I was thinking of when I took my mom to Scotland in 2007. One day we stopped for lunch right next to Loch Lomond with a nice view of the loch. This made the walk very emotional (she passed away 19 months ago), and I was a bit overwhelmed with feelings.

The trail. Beautiful roots, but a little difficult to cross with a bad knee.

Eventually I got to Sallochy Campsite. By now my back was a bit sore, my guess is that I somehow put stress on it from unconsciously trying to make it easier for my knee.

The campgrounds is very basic with three composting toilets and a sink with cold water for drinking and doing dishes. It is divided in two parts, one with larger pitches for car campers; they also have a barbecue on each site. I was in the West Highland Way hikers' area, a larger site with room for 6 one person tents. I was second to arrive and could choose a great spot!

A tent with a view.

Pitching the tent proved very difficult. For the first time since my accident I had to kneel and put pressure on my knee. The pain was quite bad and I had to come up with different ways to kneel without standing on my right knee. It is also stiff, so I can't bend it much. In good weather like today it wasn't too hard, but in rain, when I would like to do as much as possible from the inside, it will probably be trickier.  

Most of the others at the West Highland Way part of the campgrounds were Germans. I spent the evening with a German couple and a German father and son; very nice people and we had a lot of fun, staying up talking until it got dark.

Day 15: Strathblane to Drymen

May 2

Kilometers: 16

Ascent: 148

I don't do well walking up hills, that's why I always keep track of the ascent. So far it's been very flat, but that's about to change. Today the John Muir Way would join the West Highland Way, but first I had a decision to make. Walk up a steep hill or no hill. Walk 1,5 kilometers longer or 1,5 kilometers shorter. No muddy track or muddy track. Well, I'll choose a muddy track over a steep hill most days. So I chose to walk another dismantled railway again, though this one wasn't suggested for walking on the map. But hey, no hill! And no tarmac 😁

Beautiful walk.

A downed tree, not very difficult to pass

This one was trickier. It wasn't until I found a faint path to the right I could pass. It did however involve passing two barbed wire fences and balancing on a narrow ledge next to one of the fences.

Finally I joined the 'real' track and the going got easier. I was now joined by a horde of people. After walking alone for so long it was strange with all these people, but also very nice.

Four West Highland Way walkers in one photo. I lost count of people passing me sometime around 45. And they all pass me, that's how I got my trail name, Low Gear 😂

I'm a real coo. Take my picture.

 My boots got muddy today, but I came prepared with a small brush to clean them, a necessity when hiking in white boots. Not my first choice, but white was the only color I could find.

I'm staying at Drymen Inn tonight. I asked for a quiet room when I booked and was told it wouldn't be a problem 

 I guess they meant 'quiet after closing the pub.

Day 14: Kirkintilloch to Strathblane

May 1

Kilometers: 16

Ascent: 63

Today was a little warmer than yesterday, no need for s jacket. Today I walked along John Muir Way on a dismantled railway. I was afraid that it would be very hot, but most of the way there were lots of trees on both sides. Lots of tacos again today, but it was easier to walk on the side, many times there were paths close to the tarmac, much softer for my feet.

I met a lot of people along the way (though you can't tell from the photos). One man told me of a nice café, The Fells Coffee House. It wasn't too far out of the way and I felt an urge to check it out.

I'm so glad I did! The apple slice with custard was divine.

Wild garlic everywhere 

I found a bench to sit on. And what a view!

As the day wore on it got warmer. The closer I got to town the more benches there were along the trail, and I sat down on anything sitable to drink some water and rest my feet. On one of those benches I met Stephen from Milngavie, who was out for a bike ride. We had a nice chat, at least I think we did, I didn't understand more than maybe half of what he said (he was very nice, really!). 

Today may well have been the best day I'll have while I'm here!

Day 13: Croy to Kirkintilloch

April 30

Kilometers: 14

Ascent: 134

First day back on the trail! I've decided on short days for a while  just in case of any problems from my fall. I'll also be staying in hotels for a couple of days. My knee is fine while I walk but I can't kneel, so sleeping in a tent would be difficult.

First of all I mailed my vote for the EU parliament. Then I walked to Tiso. My pack is so heavy with all the food! Luckily I could leave it on the ground floor, the outdoor stuff is on the third floor. I soon found  some pegs and was on my way again. 

Waverly train station 

I got a ticket for the next train to Croy, where I had decided to start walking. As we neared Croy it started to rain, but it soon stopped and I finally got started. I followed the John Muir Way all the way to Kirkintilloch, a lot of it along the Forth and Clyde Canal towpath. But before I got to the canal I walked along the Antoine Wall and passed some Roman forts, of which you could see hardly anything.

The Antoine Wall 

As I got to the canal there were a couple of benches where I sat down for a while and talked to a couple of people.

Along the canal 

My new BFF

Walking along the canal was so easy, no ups and downs and no need for navigating. But it was also very hard, tarmac all the way, and very hot. For a while I was afraid I was getting blisters on the underside of my toes, but as I arrived at my hotel I could see that they seemed to be ok. I'll wear my merino Injinjis tomorrow and see if that makes a difference.

In Edinburgh

April 29

Kilometers: 14

Ascent: 115

Today my original plan was to take a bus to Winchburg today and start walking my route, but due to my accident I felt I needed another day to make sure that everything is fine. So I was in no hurry to get up this morning. My room at the hostel is so quiet and I had a great night's sleep, all alone in a 6 bed room. Then, all of a sudden, a girl was climbing down from one of the other bunk beds. I thought I heard a noise last night, that must have been her coming in.

Princes Street Gardens

Aftersiling 2 resupply parcels to Oban and Montrose I spent the day walking in Edinburgh. First, to Waterstones for a Coke, toast and cake. Then down to Princes Street Gardens, up to the Royal Mile and finally down to the Royal Botanic Garden. 

Up to the Royal Mile 

Royal Botanic Garden 

I've felt ok walking today. I can't say that everything is great but I think I'll be fine. Funny thing is my arm muscles are extremely sore. I must have flexed them trying to brace my fall. It's hard just to lift them 😂

Back at the youth hostel I went down to the kitchen to see if anyone could witness my signature for my EU parliament vote. A German and a Dutch man helped me and I can mail my vote tomorrow. Finally I could go upstairs and pack. The plan was to get an early start tomorrow morning, but while I was packing I realized that my tent pegs were missing. They probably fell out when I fell yesterday. Luckily, I know how to get to Tiso! 

Voting is important!